by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

How to Select the Best Filter for Your Drip Irrigation Systems

Water Quality

Selecting the correct size and type of filter for a low-volume irrigation system is a critical decision that should be made with forethought and research. This process begins by acquiring knowledge of the quality of the water being supplied. Water sources for drip irrigation systems are varied and can include potable treated water, well water, recycled/grey water, pond/stream/river water, rainwater, and more. It is essential to know what primary contaminants are present in the water supply so the correct type of filter can be selected.

Filters are a vital component of the head assembly, and their function is to prevent emitters, drip lines, foggers, and micro-sprinklers from clogging by keeping the water supply clean and free of organic and inorganic contaminants. There are two main element types of Y filters available for use with landscape drip irrigation systems: screen and disc.

Screen Filters

The most common type are screen filters, which force the water through a cylindrical screen element. The foreign matter/debris accumulates on the inside of the removable screen element. The screen material can be polyester or stainless steel (preferably) and is available in a variety of mesh sizes. These filters are primarily designed to remove inorganic contaminants and hard particulates such as sand. Organic, non-solid contaminants can clog these screens quickly, and they can be quite difficult to remove from the screen material. These filters are usually readily available in sizes from ¾” to 2” and are equipped with a variety of element mesh sizes. Models with a manual flush valve allow for quick flushing of the screen element without removing it from the filter body. Most drip systems require a filter with a minimum of 120 mesh.

Disc Filters

A better choice if the water supply contains organic contaminants like algae or non-solid materials is the disc filter. Disc filters force the water through a set of stacked round discs, and the foreign matter collects on the outside of the disc set. Disc filters have a larger surface filtration area than screen filters and do an excellent job removing organic contaminants. These filters can be cleaned manually by removing the disc set from the filter body or by back-flushing it through the opened flush valve or cap.

Filter Sizing

Typically, the optimal filter inlet/outlet size is determined by (and equivalent to) the size of the adjacent system control valve (or supply pipe size). Pressure loss charts are available from the filter manufacturer and should be consulted prior to final selection to ensure the performance specifications are compatible with systemic flow rates and operating pressures. The filter inlet/outlet size must be large enough to match the system flow rate and not cause significant pressure loss. Larger filters usually have two pressure gauge ports available; however, all models should have a flush cap or valve where a pressure gauge may be installed to monitor/verify system operating pressure.

Maintenance

All drip system filters should be checked periodically and cleaned if and when necessary. Visually inspect the filter body for external leaks while the system is running. Unscrew and remove the filter cover to remove, inspect, and clean the screen or disc element. After cleaning with a brush under running water, re-install the element into the filter body and re-test. It is important to remember that landscape drip irrigation Y filters do not remove dissolved compounds, salts, or minerals commonly present in “hard” water.

Irrigation has been a cornerstone of agricultural development since the dawn of civilization. As societies transitioned from nomadic lifestyles to settled farming communities, the need to manage water resources efficiently became paramount. This blog explores the fascinating history and evolution of irrigation techniques, tracing their journey from ancient innovations to modern advancements.

Ancient Beginnings: The Birth of Irrigation

The earliest known irrigation systems date back to ancient Mesopotamia, around 6000 BCE. The Sumerians, living in the fertile crescent between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers, developed simple yet effective methods to channel water to their fields. Using a network of canals, dikes, and gates, they could control the flow of water, ensuring their crops received adequate hydration during dry periods.

Similarly, in ancient Egypt, the annual flooding of the Nile River was harnessed through basin irrigation. Farmers built earthen embankments to capture floodwaters, which then slowly seeped into the soil, nourishing crops. This technique was instrumental in supporting the agricultural productivity that underpinned the rise of Egyptian civilization.

Advancements in Ancient China and India

Around 3000 BCE, irrigation techniques began to flourish in ancient China and India. The Chinese developed intricate canal systems and used water wheels, known as “norias,” to lift water from rivers to higher ground. These innovations enabled them to cultivate rice paddies, which required consistent and controlled water supply.

In India, the Indus Valley Civilization (circa 2500 BCE) constructed sophisticated irrigation systems, including reservoirs, wells, and intricate canal networks. The stepwells, or “baoris,” were particularly remarkable, providing a sustainable water source in arid regions and showcasing advanced engineering skills.

Roman Innovations: Aqueducts and Beyond

The Romans made significant contributions to irrigation technology, particularly with their extensive aqueduct systems. These marvels of engineering transported water from distant sources to cities and agricultural lands. The Romans also employed methods such as terracing and the use of underground clay pipes to distribute water efficiently.

One notable example is the aqueduct system of Carthage, which stretched over 132 kilometers and supplied water to both urban areas and farmland. Roman innovations laid the groundwork for future developments in irrigation infrastructure.

Medieval and Renaissance Developments

During the medieval period, irrigation techniques continued to evolve, particularly in the Middle East and Europe. The Persians developed the “qanat” system, a series of underground channels that transported water from aquifers to surface-level irrigation networks. This method was highly effective in arid regions, minimizing water loss through evaporation.

In Europe, the Renaissance period saw the refinement of irrigation practices. The introduction of water mills and improved canal systems enhanced agricultural productivity. The Dutch, for instance, became adept at managing water levels in their low-lying regions, using a combination of dikes, pumps, and canals to reclaim and irrigate land.

Modern Innovations: The Rise of Precision Irrigation

The 20th century brought a revolution in irrigation techniques, driven by technological advancements and a growing understanding of water management. The development of motorized pumps, sprinkler systems, and drip irrigation transformed agriculture, making it more efficient and sustainable.

Drip irrigation, pioneered in Israel in the 1960s, represents a significant leap forward. This method delivers water directly to the roots of plants through a network of tubes and emitters, reducing water wastage and increasing crop yields. Precision irrigation, aided by sensors and computer-controlled systems, allows farmers to monitor soil moisture levels and adjust irrigation schedules accordingly, optimizing water usage.

The Future of Irrigation: Sustainability and Innovation

As we move into the 21st century, the focus on sustainable irrigation practices has intensified. Climate change, water scarcity, and the need for food security are driving innovations in irrigation technology. Solar-powered irrigation systems, rainwater harvesting, and the use of reclaimed wastewater are some of the emerging trends.

Moreover, the integration of artificial intelligence and the Internet of Things (IoT) in irrigation management holds great promise. Smart irrigation systems can analyze weather data, soil conditions, and plant needs in real time, ensuring precise and efficient water application.

Conclusion

From the ancient canals of Mesopotamia to the smart irrigation systems of today, the history of irrigation is a testament to human ingenuity and adaptability. As we face the challenges of the future, continuing to innovate and improve our irrigation practices will be essential in ensuring sustainable agricultural productivity and water conservation. Understanding the past allows us to appreciate the advancements we have made and inspires us to keep pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the field of irrigation.

REFERENCES

1. The Qanat System: Ancient Technology for Sustainable Water Use. https://revolve.media/beyond/how-qanats-work

2. The Water System of Ancient Rome. https://engineeringrome.org/the-water-system-of-ancient-rome/

3. Stepwell, baori. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepwell
4. The History of the Noria. https://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1294/noria-history
5. Two Centuries of Experience in Water Resources Management. https://www.iwr.usace.army.mil/portals/70/docs/iwrreports/two_centuries.pdf

6. How Kibbutz Hatzerim Helped Pioneer Drip Irrigation. https://issuu.com/waterstrategies/docs/il_may_2020/s/10459102

7. https://www.icej.org/understand-israel/israel-updates/diamonds/

by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

1. Optimize Your Microtubing: A Sunlit Solution for Easy Installation

Uncoil and lay down the ½” and the ¼” microtubing on the ground or pavement in direct sunlight and leave it there for 30 to 60 minutes. Secure it to the ground in a straight line and the heat will help reduce the tubing tendency to re-coil; this will make it easier to cut the tubing & install the fittings.

Drip Irrigation Tubing

2. Essential Tools for Drip System Installation

Make sure you have a sharp, strong tubing cutter, utility shears or pruner to cut the tubing, or better yet, a multi-function drip punch/cutter tool, these tools speed up and simplify the installation of the system.

Tubing Cutter, Punch & Insertion Tool

3. Optimizing Dripper Placement for Efficient Irrigation

Install as many drippers as possible directly into the side of the ½” poly tubing. Coil it around trees and large shrubs that will need several drippers. Use ½” TEEs to branch off to adjacent areas. Install ¼” microtubing only where necessary, like extending a dripper away from the ½” or up into a container.

Drip Emitters

4. ¼” Dripline for Lush Landscapes

Use ¼” Dripline for thorough soil saturation in trees, vegetable gardens, and flowerbeds.

Dripline & Soaker Hose

5. Clean Irrigation Lines in Your Drip System

Leave the ends of the ½” poly tubing open during installation and when finished open the system valve for a few minutes and flush out any soil or particles that may be in the tubing. After the water runs clear, close the ends off one at a time.

Hose End Closure

6. Anti-Slip Gloves for Drip System Installation

Wear a pair of high quality, anti-slip gloves; this will help you get a good grip on the tools, tubing, and fittings.

7. Hot Water Soaking on Chilly Days

On cold/cloudy days, it may help to soak the end of the tubing in a cup of hot tap water for about 20 seconds, this will warm up the tubing end and make it easier to install the fittings.

8. Curved Installation of  ½” Poly Tubing

When installing long straight runs of ½” poly tubing, lay the tubing down with gentle curves to allow for expansion and contraction due to temperature changes.

9. Securing Poly Tubing

The last step is to secure the poly tubing to the soil with stakes, but only after pressurizing the system and checking for leaks and irrigation coverage.

Stakes

10. Keeping Micro-Sprayers at a Safe Distance

Avoid Installing Micro-Sprayers Within 18 Inches of Shrubs to Prevent Potential Spray Blockage by Foliage.

11. Optimize Irrigation with Dedicated Systems for Potted Plants

Establish Separate Systems for Container Plants, Adjusting for Their Unique Watering Needs Compared to Ground-Planted Flora.

12. Mixing Jet-Sprayers and Micro Sprayers with Drip Emitters

It’s OK to install jet-sprayers & micro sprayers on the same system with drip emitters.

Micro Sprayers

13. Faucet-Based Systems

For systems that start from a faucet, total system flow rate should not exceed 220 GPH (gallons per hour), and total ½” tubing lengths should not exceed 400 feet.

by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

The “Ins and Outs” of Drip Irrigation Manifolds

Drip irrigation manifolds, also known as multi-port emitters or low-volume bubblers, have been specifically engineered for landscape irrigation, catering to the connection of ¼” micro-tubing (or dripline) to a ½” male pipe thread riser. These specialized products offer versatility in design and function, finding application in various scenarios, notably in new PVC pipe-based low-volume irrigation systems or the conversion of existing residential sprinkler risers to more efficient drip irrigation systems.

When determining the appropriate model(s) for a specific site, it is crucial to consider several factors to ensure enduring success:

1. Outlet Selection: Choose the number of outlets based on the quantity and size of plants to be irrigated per manifold. Plan for future expansion by including one or two unused outlets.
2. Flow Rate Consideration: Select the manifold flow rate according to the water requirements of the plants, the type of emission devices installed (if any), and the soil type at the site.
3. Durable Design: Opt for a product with a robust and durable design, ensuring UV resistance. It should be pressure compensating and capable of withstanding variations and surges in incoming pressure.
4. Ease of Maintenance: Preferred models should be easily disassembled for convenient maintenance. Additionally, models equipped with a pre-filter or screen to prevent clogging are recommended.

By taking these factors into account, one can ensure the optimal performance and longevity of drip irrigation manifolds in landscaping applications.

DIG Maverick 12-Outlet Drip Manifold

DIG Adjustable Six-Outlet PC Drip Manifold

DIG APC4 Series

DIG introduces the APC4 series, a cutting-edge solution that not only meets but surpasses the essential requirements for efficient drip irrigation. Packed with advanced features and benefits, this four-outlet PC drip manifold ensures precision and reliability in watering your landscape. Here’s a closer look at its outstanding attributes:

1. Multiple Flow Rates: Choose from four pre-set flow rates (2, 6, 10, 20 GPH per outlet) to tailor the irrigation system to the specific needs of your plants.
2. Pressure Compensating Technology: Experience uniform water flow both per manifold and per outlet, thanks to the pressure compensating design.
3. User-Friendly Design: Easily identify flow rates with color-coded outlets, streamlining the installation and management process.
4. Clog-Resistant Engineering: Featuring large water passages and a rolling diaphragm, the APC4 resists clogging, ensuring consistent performance over time.
5. Smart Micro-Tubing Installation: Micro-tubing is intelligently installed horizontally, enhancing both ease of maintenance and installation efficiency.
6. Micro-Filter Inclusion: The APC4 comes equipped with a removable micro-filter, acting as a frontline defense against clogging downstream emitters.
7. Built to Last: Crafted with UV-protected materials, the manifold withstands harsh environmental conditions, ensuring durability and longevity.
8. Flexible Installation Options: Whether on-grade or below grade in a 6-to-8-inch emitter box, the APC4 adapts to your landscape design seamlessly.
9. Future-Ready Expansion: The versatile elbow body, featuring a ¾” male hose thread, allows for easy expansion if your irrigation needs evolve.

Incorporate the DIG APC4 series into your drip irrigation system to enjoy unparalleled efficiency, ease of use, and longevity in landscape maintenance. Elevate your watering experience with precision and reliability.

DIG 4-outlet PC drip manifold

by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

What it is, what it does, and how to use it

If there is an electric irrigation valve installed on your property, there is a good chance it is equipped with a wheel or handle (or screw), located on the top of the valve. This is called the manual flow control handle. This “handle” can be turned (left or right) to adjust the volume of water flowing through the valve. Not all electric irrigation valves are equipped with this optional feature.

Please read on to learn more about this often-unexplained mechanism; the pros and cons, how it can be used to reduce water waste and more tips on maximizing the benefits of this common component of automatic irrigation control valves. 

• The mechanism functions just like the handle on a faucet; turn it clockwise to reduce the flow, counterclockwise increases the flow of water passing through the irrigation valve.
• The “handle” that turns could be in the shape of a wheel, a cross, a star, or triangle or it could be a screw that is contained by the valve cover (bonnet).
• The flow control is most useful for “fine tuning” a sprinkler system, i.e., reducing overspray (and fogging) and it is typically used to lower the operating pressure on sprinkler irrigation systems where high pressure is a concern.
• The flow control does not provide significant benefit to drip systems, and many drip zone valves do not include this optional feature.
• The flow control (if available) on a drip system valve should be set to be about 2 turns down from the maximum.
• Adjustments to the valve’s flow control should only be made when the valve is opened electrically via the controller or timer.
• The flow control can be a source of problems/trouble. Gardeners and others may turn it down while working and then fail to turn it back open before leaving.  
• The flow control cannot function as a booster pump; the maximum flow through the valve can never be increased, but only decreased, by adjusting the flow control.
• Valves without flow control are inherently less problematic, there are fewer parts and fewer opportunities for things to go wrong.

Thank you for reading! We hope you have learned more about this valve option and that this knowledge will be useful in your future irrigation endeavors! 

by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

Whether you want to grow plants as a hobby or you do this as a profession, you have to be knowledgeable about the irrigation system to be successful in your endeavors. There are many different ways for you to water your plants. Of course, surface irrigation is the most widely-known and the easiest one for most. However, it is not the most efficient way of watering the plants and fields. As of the moment, there is no system better than drip irrigation for how efficient it is.

Understanding Drip Irrigation

When you grow plants, you have to know their needs. Their basic needs include water, light, and air. And while any irrigation system can be used to water plants, it is the efficiencies of these systems that make one better than the other. In drip irrigation, you have to use emitters, tubing, pipes, and valves to make water reach the plants. As you can tell from the name, the water drips to the plants in this type of system. You have to create a network of pipes and tubes in the fields to make sure that water reaches every plant.

The main idea here is to water the plants by sending water directly to the roots. It can be done on the surface or by using pipes buried under the ground to water the plants. The reason why this type of irrigation system has become so popular in the recent years is that of its sustainability and efficiency. Water the plants using sprinklers or using any conventional methods results in the consumption and wastage of a lot of water. On the other hand, in drip irrigation, there is no wasted water as it reaches the roots of the plants directly. It is even safe from the evaporation process.

Drip Irrigation imperative in areas where water is scarce. The best thing about this system is that it can be used commercially as well as residentially.

The Main Components of Drip Irrigation System

Here are the main components of a drip irrigation system.

Water Line

Of course, it is all about water, and so there needs to be the main water line that feeds the tubing.

Pressure Controllers

They are also known as pressure regulators and reducers. The success of a drip irrigation system lies in using water at very low pressures. This is where the pressure regulators come in.

Fitting Equipment

A variety of barbed and compression fittings are available and provide many options for constructing the systems. This equipment comprises a variety of accessories including ells, adapters, couplings, tees, etc. These accessories connect the main waterline to the system and driplines and micro tubing.

Drip Tubing

Drip tubing is the part of the system that provides water to the plants. It is the drip tubes that have emitters installed on them. The emitters on the drip tubes can be installed on regular or irregular intervals. You have to purchase your drip tubing based on your needs. If your plants are not located at regular intervals, you will have to go with a manual tubing solution.

Since drip tubes are the most important part of the system, here is some detailed information about them.

Detailed Information about Drip Tubing

You have to know at this point that you can’t successfully install an irrigation system unless you are sure of your requirements. There are different tubing sizes available, and you have to pick the right one for your needs. Picking the wrong sizes can mean that you will not be able to connect the tubing to your irrigation system.

• The Basics

The first and foremost factor to consider when you are out to buy drip irrigation tubing is the size of your drip tubes. When it comes to buying the tubing, you have to consider the size regarding ID (inside diameter) and OD (outside diameter). Both the ½” and ¼” tubing are poly tubing having more sub-sizes within these categories. It is important o know these sizes to pick the right fittings for your irrigation system. Sometimes, you can have troubles in measuring the outside diameter of tubing you need. In that particular case, you have the universal fitting options available too.

It is important to note here that the inside diameter of the tubing also gives you an idea of how much water (water pressure) can pass through it at any given moment. The bigger the inner diameter, the more water pressure the tubing can handle.

• Poly Tubing

Poly tubing is also referred to as polyethylene tubing or blank irrigation tubing. There are many different lengths and sizes this type of tubing is available. The position of poly tubing in the irrigation system is to act as the main tube or the sub-lateral to carry water to the micro tubing. An entire irrigation system consists of both types of tubing, i.e., micro and poly tubing.  This type of tubing comes in the category of ½” tubing wherein it has many different qualities that make it the indispensable component of any drip irrigation system. Here are the different ½” tubing size variations available.

½” Tubing Sizes

• .520” ID x .620” OD (requires compression fittings that have green insert)
• .600” ID x .700” OD (requires compression fittings that have black insert)
• .615” ID x .710” OD (requires compression fittings that have blue insert)

You should note here that compression fittings with blue insert can be used with .620” ID x .710” OD as well. Furthermore, you can also find an additional configuration:

• .570” ID x .670” OD (requires compression fittings that have brown insert)

There are some other polyethylene tubing sizes available as well other than these most popular ones. They are as under:

• 1/8-inch

.125” ID x .187” OD

• ¼-inch

.170” ID x .250” OD

• 3⁄8-inch

.375” ID x .500” OD

• ¾-inch

.820” ID x .940” OD

• 1-inch

060”ID x 1.200” OD

Make sure that you are aware of the many different sizes of tubing available before purchasing and starting your irrigation system.

• Drip Tubing

Also called micro-tubing, this is the part of your drip irrigation system that extrudes from the main poly tubing and extends forward to the plants. The water comes from the main line into the poly tubing, and from there to the drip tubing. The micro sprinklers and emitters are attached to this part of the drip tubing network. However, irrigation systems that are very small in size and need to provide very little water to the plants can use drip tubing or micro-tubing as the main supply line too. This type of tubing is also available in many different sizes.

Keep in mind that the ½” option is available in drip tubing as well. However, there is a slight difference in the internal and external diameter of this part of the tubing from the same size tubing in the ½ inch category.

• ½” Inch

.570 ID x .670” OD

.550 ID x .640” OD

• ¼ Inch

.170” ID x .240 OD

When you are looking for drip tubing in the market, you will find that it is commonly available in black color. The resistance to sunlight is great in drip tubing. You can choose from the many different lengths that are available starting from only a 100-ft to 1,000-ft.

Now, from the information given above you can tell how the water moves in the drip tubing irrigation system, e.g. it flows from the main water line into the poly tubing section, which is a bit bigger allowing for more water to pass. From the ½-inch tubing, the water has to travel into drip tubing and from there into the plant roots.

Deciding the Type of Tubing, You Will Need

One of the biggest dilemmas for those who are doing drip irrigation tubing for the first time is to know which size of the tubing they will have to get. As mentioned above, the needs can vary from person to person and the size of the irrigation system that one needs. In its simplest form, an irrigation system might not even need different types of tubing. An arrangement of the most basic form of irrigation system will look something like this.

Valve – Backflow Preventer – Pressure Regulator – Filter – Tubing Adapter – Drip Tubing – Emitters – End Cap

The water will flow from left to right, i.e., you turn on the valve; the water goes from backflow preventer to the end cap.

A few things to know while buying tubing for your irrigation system is that ½” tubing does not have to be that size, i.e., the size will not be exactly ½”. Furthermore, the .700 OD x .600 ID remains one of the most commonly used sizes in most irrigation systems. The size that looks most like ½” tubing is the .580. Another important consideration in addition to the type of tubing is emitters and the amount of water that flows through them at any given moment. As a general rule of irrigation, keep your flow rates slower if the soil you are using is dense.

by Stuart Spaulding,
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

Our suggestion is to use a combination of drip 1/4″ soaker line or misters for large containers and individual drippers for the smaller pots. For larger or longer containers use our 1/4″ soaker line (drip line with .5 GPH dripper every 12″). For smaller pots use 1-2 .5 GPH drippers per pot. First, divide the containers and pots into groups with similar sizes and similar watering needs. It is also advisable to divide containers and pots into groups that are either in full sun or in shaded areas. See the list below with what we think are the best steps to help you to install this system. Please be aware that all installation applications are different. If you do not find the exact information that pertains to your application, send as an email with what you like to do for your particular situation.

In this installation configuration the system can start from a 3/4″ faucet or ho a garden hose. The system can be automated using a hose end battery operated controller (optional). This layout can be used with up to 200 small baskets or smaller number of large boxes in a wide range of application layout. With this system you have the option using the 1/2″ as the main line and the 1/4″ micro tubing as the sub lateral for a system with up to a total flow rate of 220 GPH or up to 220 1-gallon pots or using the 1/4″ micro tubing only for up to 25 1-gallon pots.

Parts suggestion:

• Battery operated controller (optional) model 9001. Connect the controller to the faucet.
• After the controller installed a 3/4″ filter #13. Connect the filter to the controller. The filter will protect the drippers and the 1/4″ soaker line (drip line) from plugging.
• To the filter connect a 3/4″ FHT 25-PSI pressure regulator #4. The pressure regulator will lower the incoming pressure to a lower the pressure recommended for use with a drip system.
• 3/4″ FHT swivel adaptor #18. Connect to the pressure regulator. If you need to split the line to two sections in at the faucet use #22 swivel tee for the large system or 3/4″ x 1/4″ adaptor #21 for the smaller system
• 50′ or 100′ 1/2″ drip tubing model B35 and B36. Connect to the swivel adaptor and layout the drip tubing along the patio or pots and containers area (For the large system up to 220 1 GPH drippers or 400 .5 GPH can be installed on 1 line of 1/2″ drip tubing). For the small system use 1/4″ vinyl micro tubing model B38 for 50′, B38100 for 100′ and B38500 for 500′ and connect into the 1/4″ adaptor
• If using the 1/2″ drip tubing, near each pot, basket and container punch a hole in the 1/2″ tubing using the punch, and insert a 1/4″ barb #25.
• If using the 1/4″ micro tubing, near each pot, basket and container cut the 1/4″ micro tubing and add a 1/4″ tee #26
• Into the 1/4″ barb or 1/4″ tee connect the 1/4″ micro tubing (see above for model #), and run it to the basket or container (one line of 1/4″ micro tubing for each pot, basket or container)
• 4″ to 6″ from the pots or baskets cut the micro tubing, and attach a 1/4″ ball valve #65 (2 per pack). Ideally when everything is connected and running, each pot on the system should begin to drain water in the same time. If this is not happening, it is usually because there are various pot sizes. A 1/4″ valve can be added to control the flow to each pot or section of pots. When planning out your system, it is common to group like size containers on one line, sectioning out the pots. In this situation, a single 1/4″ valve can control the flow to a number of similar sized pots. If this is not possible because of the layout of the pots, which is common, a 1/4″ valve can be added to each line to individually control the water to the pots. This ball valve will allow you to adjust the flow by turning the knob to either side.
• After the ball valve add another piece of 1/4″ micro tubing, and run it into the pot, basket or container.
• To the end of the 1/4″, and for each basket of up to 10″ in diameter add .5 GPH #37 (pack of 5, 25 and 100) and secure with a stake #57 or #67 (pack of 10 and 100). For basket larger then 10″ and up to 12″, instead of the dripper, add a 1/4″ tee, into each side of the tee add a 3″ to 5″ micro tubing, and to the end of the two micro tubing add a .5 GPH dripper. For containers larger then 12″ or for a very long containers, inside the containers instead of the dripper, add a 1/4″ tee, into the tee connect the 1/4″ soaker line (drip line) model SH50 and make a loop around the basket or containers, if needed have two loops and then connect back to the other side of the 1/4″ tee
• 1/2″ hose ends #55 (pack of 5) or #71 (pack of 1). After the 1/2″ drip tubing is installed, turn the water on and flush the line. Close the end of the 1/2″ drip tubing. Turn the water on again and make sure that the system operating and there is no leak along the line or on the filter assembly.
• Punch #52 or our large punch #51. Use the punch to punch hole in the 1/2″ for insertion of the drippers and 1/4″ fittings
• 1/2″ tubing holder stakeParts suggestion: #60 can be used to hole the 1/2″ drip tubing to the ground
  Plugs (if needed) #56. If you have a hole on the 1/2″ you can use the plug to close the hole

Start the system:
Begin by turning the water on and adjusting the flow on the 1/4″ ball valves as needed by turning the knob on the ball valve clock-wise.
NOTE: The pots probably will drain uneven (because they are in different sized) use the 1/4″ valve on each line to control the flow, so that each pot can drains at the same time regardless of size.

When watering on a regular basis, it is ideal to allow very little water to drain out of the pots. This helps conserve water and generally keeps the area cleaner. After the initial start up you will want to determine how long the system should run each time to sufficiently irrigate the pots without excess runoff. To do this, run the system checking to see how long it takes all the pots to drain. We want to set irrigation schedules about 1-2 minutes less then it takes for the pots to drain. For example, lets say it initially took the pots 5 minutes to all begin draining. This means you will want to leave the system on regularly for about 2-3 minutes each time to minimize runoff. After a week check the soil, the health of the plants, and adjust the watering time as needed.

by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

Having access to organically grown vegetables has its benefits, but have you ever thought about how digging the soil, watering the plants and keeping the pests away can benefit your mind and body? As beneficial as gardening is to individuals, it also has a significant imprint on the environment.

Valuable resources such as drinking water are becoming scarce. With a little landscaping in your backyard or front garden, not only are you benefitting your health but also the environment around you.

An over-abundance of greenhouse gases can make it difficult for our planet to cool down naturally. The balance between carbon dioxide, other greenhouse gases, and breathable air can be maintained by planting more trees and plants. Living, growing plant material, through photosynthesis, can convert carbon dioxide to organic material and offset some atmospheric carbon dioxide generated by current and future human activity.

The breath of fresh air that you feel each time you visit a place where there is a lot of greenery and flowers is due to the capability of the plants to convert carbon dioxide into oxygen. Put in simpler words; gardens are one solution to many of earth’s climatic and environmental problems.

Seasonal Landscape maintenance

Landscape maintenance is an art that involves keeping the garden, backyard, park or institutional setting in a clean and healthy state. You can hire professionals, or you can maintain your garden yourself. This can be taken up as a hobby, and with the right knowledge and tools, you can create an entirely clean, healthy and attractive landscape. Seasonal landscaping involves preparing your garden for different seasons and planting the right plants for each season.

However, we do live in a fast paced world, and with professional and personal obligation, fully committing to landscaping can sometimes be  impractical. But there are ways in which you can maintain a beautiful landscape without spending a lot of time on it.

·      Durable materials

For a home gardener, gardening is about how beautiful the plants look. But this can only be achieved if you are using the right tools for maintenance. Good landscaping contributes to easy garden maintenance. The materials you use to maintain the landscape should be durable and withstand all the weather changes in your area. Thorough research into the best materials for pathway edging, decking and so on is needed to invest in materials that are durable.

·      Maintain an Inventory

In case of landscaping, time and money are a valuable stock. Before committing to the maintenance of the landscape, drafting a budget and determining how much time you have for this activity is necessary. If you are planning to hire professionals, how much are you willing to pay for their services? Are you ready to permanently hire them for seasonal maintenance or you will do it yourself? You also need to keep records of the material that you have in stock which can be re-used, such as sprays, pesticides or soil.  The hardware required for the landscaping should be in good condition, if not, get your gardening tools repaired for seasonal maintenance.

·      Choose simpler plants

Flowers are beautiful, and a garden is incomplete without them.  But before adding a flowering plant to your landscape, you need to make sure you can care for it. Not all plants require the same level of care, and in some cases, a little more watering than usual can be harmful to the plants. Unless you are a full-time gardener, choosing a simple theme with minimum plant variations is the best way to go about it.  Adding various categories of plants to your landscape can be time-consuming and may even cost more than you have allocated for your garden. Choose a category of plants that require the same level of maintenance.  If you are into planting vegetables, assign a separate space for seasonal vegetables in the landscape, this way you will be able to maintain the rest of the garden in perfect condition without many changes and hard work.

·      Prioritize the maintenance requirements

This is the key to a healthy looking landscape. If you are investing time in pruning a tree every few weeks and clearing the plants of dead leaves but you are leaving the weed-removal until the end, it can get problematic. Prioritize your tasks according to the nature of the plants, and this makes maintaining the garden more accessible.

Beautifying your yard

Maintaining a beautiful garden requires a combination of commitment, hard work, and following best- design principles. A well-kept garden, set according to a theme is a treat for the senses. The chirping birds, the variety of colors and texture adds visual weight to any house. Hiring a garden designer is always an option, but you can quickly get inspiration for it all around you. With the use of technology, the best tips and tricks are at your fingertips. Do a little homework and find a visually pleasing situation that suits your lifestyle and how gardening fits into it.

We have a few of our tips to help you out with beautifying your garden:

1.    Flowers

Flowers provide a striking contrast to the green background. If you are more of a vegetable gardener, there are a variety of vegetables that bear beautiful flowers. These vegetables include basils with white or purple flowers, chives with purple flowers, spring onions with white flowers, zucchini with orange-yellow flowers, rosemary with purple flowers, pineapple sage with red flowers and rocket with white flowers adds to the scenario. If you are working towards a theme, flowers are your best bet.

2.    Always control the weeds

This should be a priority even before you are done with completely setting-up your garden. Remove unwanted plants; this takes away from the beautiful landscape that you have prepared. Instead, use these extra weeds in compost for your garden plants and vegetables.

3.    Follow a theme

If you are fond of different colors and textures in plants, you can still maintain a theme by using similar foliage or same colored flowers to border the garden. This will frame the other colorful plants for you and give your garden a balanced look. You can also plant these “framing” plants in pots with the same color theme.

4.    Edible herbs

If your kitchen window opens into your garden, frame it with visually appealing herbs. You can choose to plant curly-leafed parsley, Greek basil with marigold, lemon thyme or clumps of chives. Mint can also be used as the last plant in the row on both ends to keep the setting uniform.

5.    Furniture

Spending time in the fresh air will do you good. The best way to enjoy the work of your hands is by adding furniture pieces such as tables, chairs or garden sofas to the setting. Choose colors and textures that are easy to maintain and go with the theme of your landscape.

Preparing for spring

Spring is the most awaited season for any gardener. The promise of blooming colors and life can make anyonehappy. As a gardener, you can choose to prepare for a beautiful season of plants and vegetable in your garden.

·      Zig-Zag

Instead of arranging your plants in straight lines go for the zig-zag technique. You are likely to plant more in the spring; with this arrangement, each plant will get adequate sunlight and water without blocking each other.

·      Spring flowers

This means you can add life to your garden with a variety of flowers that blossom in spring. Choose native plants because they require less maintenance and you don’t have to use a different variety of soil for them. Annuals are a good seasonal choice for spring; they can be planted at the beginning of the season and then removed at the end of it. But they require extra water and care. Perennials are comparatively the better choice as they do not need additional care and maintenance and are also multi-seasonal. The best options are red-hot pokers, hostas and bear’s breeches. If you have pets or children who like to play in the garden, white-clover can be used to cover the play area.

·      Spring vegetables

Spring is the optimum time to plant vegetables, the weather is ideal and choosing seasonal vegetables to enjoy at your summer BBQ is a fun idea. You can choose vegetables such as peas, radishes, carrots, lettuce, Swiss chard, and beans to grow in your garden. These can be planted directly into the soil or pots for the season.  Roses,cranberries, raspberries, grapes, and blackberries are also suitable choices for spring. But if you cannot invest extra time and money into the maintenance, stay away from these plants.

Bottom Line

Regularly maintaining and landscaping your garden is necessary to keep up the appearance. A little neglect can result in weeds taking over your precious garden to maintain the health of your plants you need to control the weeds, water the plants regularly and keep them safe from pests. A visit to the local nursery for supplies and advice can certainly help.

by Stuart Spaulding —
CLIA Certified Landscape Irrigation Auditor Training & Communications Manager at DIG Corp.

Preventing Emitter Clogging due to Root Intrusion on Sub-Surface Dripline Systems

Dripline manufacturers have developed a variety of methods of dealing with the problem of root intrusion into dripline emitters and tubing, which can be a problem in sub-surface dripline irrigation systems (in turf areas) over time.

Some of these manufacturing techniques include impregnating the emitters material with herbicide, imbedding the emitters with a copper compound or copper oxide, or incorporating physical barriers of one type or another into the emitters.  Other producers who may not use these manufacturing processes recommend injecting an herbicide periodically into the system to prevent root intrusion & subsequent damage to the emitters.

But the most overlooked method to combat root intrusion may be the most basic: the practice of appropriate irrigation scheduling.  Regardless of what type of dripline is installed, it is essential to irrigate on a regular, sometimes frequent schedule, so that the soil around every emitter does not dry out.  If the soil around the emitters becomes too dry, the roots could seek out and find the water source, penetrate the emitter, and plug it up or alter the flow rate.

Lighter sandier soils need to be irrigated more frequently than dense, heavy soils with a high clay content, so It’s wise to become aware of the soil type in the irrigated area.   A good soil probe is also a handy tool to use to measure the soil moisture at different depths.  And soil moisture sensors can be utilized and connected to the irrigation controller to ensure that the soil moisture level is maintained automatically at the optimum level.

If the controller watering schedule is customized to fit the soil type, climate zone, and plant type, the chance of root intrusion damage will be minimized, water savings maximized, and the lifespan of the dripline system extended for many years.